Any Questions
Well... I am still learning how to publish this stuff on this blog. Keep in mind that I am a slow learner.
Before I go any further, I need to let you all know that there are many things that I have also learned from you guys on the various forums I have frequented on a semi-regular basis. Some of those tips will be included here once in a while. I will give credit to the person I got the info from.
If there is a specific topic you would like me to address, post it in one of the comment sections of this blog. Ask questions. If I have an answer... I will give it. I will not blow smoke up your ass if I don't, however. And if I don't know, I will tell you that also. If it's one of those things that I would have to google to give a response, you are on your own. You can do that as well as I can. And if that's the case, come back with an answer, and I will post it here for you... with your name in lights.
Also understand that I have a life outside of straight razors and this blog... and forums. I may not always be punctual with posts and such. I also have a CD to update and a book on the jail to write. Good thing I'm retired...
posted by Bill at 9:50 AM
6 Comments:
Bill, how do I remove chromatic stains (color stains, like oil sleaks) on the blade? Are these due to some chemical actions or distempering of the blade? Tried cut buffing with Dico emery paste E5 but the stains still stay.
Hi Roland...
Most staining can be removed with any good metal polish on a cotton rag. Flitz and Maas are good choices. Use the safety jig to do the work.
If the metal polish doesn't work, you will have to go to the sandpaper. Use the least aggressive grits first. Start with a 600, then go to a 1,000 and then to a 1,500.
Heat damage will be yellow, blue, or brown and variations of these colors. The colors will match pretty close on both sides if it is true heat damage. If it is heat damage... toss the razor 'cause it cannot be repaired.
Hi Bill, I have a straight razor that is in need of repair, but I am not certain I have the ability or the tools. The blade has some curve to it and a couple of pits. Would I be able to repair it with your CD and a simple 4000/8000 Norton waterstone? Basically I would like to know what tools would be required to repair the edge of the razor, prior to purchasing anything. Thanks for the help!
Jeff...
Your short question needs a lengthy answer, which is why I wrote the CD. It explains all of that. It's hard, anyway, to give a definitive answer without seeing a pic of the razor. The quick answer is that the 4/8K all by itself most likely will not do everything you want it to do. An excellent resource for what you asked can be found over at www.straightrazorplace.com. There are some really helpful folks over there.
Hi Bill,
Thanks for posting all the straight razor restoration/re-scaling info! As soon as I find a fairly low-cost "victim" to start with, I will give re-scaling and restoration a go! I'm a woodworker and straight razor fan, so this is cool, although the techniques such as pinning, sanding and polishing metal, etc. are new to me, the info you provide seems like a great starting point!!
Hey bill. I'm currenly deployed to Afghanistan with the Army. The wife wants me to give up smoking when I come home. I have a wood working project I want to do. It involves straight razors. I dont plan to make the whole razor. I think you could help me alot. If you don't mind here's my email. I'll send you one back telling you all about it. Btw I'm making the wife pick up making shave soap as hobby. That'll teach 'er a lesson!
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